Jewish Cooking in America
Joan Nathan, Alfred Knopf, 1994
Food plays a major role in Jewish family and community rituals. This book is a fascinating collection of classic Ashkenazi and Sephardic recipes as they have been reinterpreted in America and adapted to local culture and ingredients. Yet the recipes still retain the flavor of their Syrian, Moroccan, Greek, German, Polish, and Alsatian roots. They are drawn from Jewish communities from New York to California, from the Midwest to the Deep South. In addition to the recipes, the book features stories and photographs that create a living portrait of Jewish life as it was relocated in America. There are recipes for appetizers, breads, grain and vegetable dishes, fish, meat and poultry, dairy recipes, and desserts dating back to the first Kosher cookbook, published in Philadelphia in 1871.
Kugel is a baked noodle dish that can be savory or sweet. It’s usually a side dish, but can serve as the main dish for brunch, or even as a dessert. In Jewish Cooking in America, six different recipes are included; many of them prize winners in local contests and fairs. Since kugel is a favorite dish in my family, I’ve tried them all. In this issue of the Gazette, I share the recipe that was regularly served at the American Embassy in Rome.